Captain’s log, Stardate 2025.11.15–23.

 Captain’s log, Stardate 2025.11.15–23. An account of shore leave, unexpected turbulence, and successful return to base.

November break officially began on the 15th. I traveled with the basketball teams to a suburb of Seoul—a nonstop ride of chaos and fun. Unfortunately, the journey was plagued with injuries. One of the guards broke a finger in the first game of the season and was out for the tournament. Then, during the first game of the tournament, two more players had suspicious finger injuries, prompting the head coach to rush them to the doctor before the next game. Thankfully, both returned cleared to play.

During the third game, a player injured her ankle badly enough that I rode with her in the ambulance to the hospital. She tore two tendons. In the span of a few hours, she had an X-ray, an MRI, and two consults with an orthopedic doctor. She left with a cast and a broken heart. She’s such a fierce competitor.  And a senior :(

In the girls’ championship game, one of our players committed an offensive foul, fell on her defender, and both landed on a third defender. The third had the wind knocked out of her so forcefully that she had a panic attack. The ambulance made another visit, causing about a 40-minute delay. In the end, the girls fought back and won the championship by a single basket—especially satisfying since they had lost to that team earlier in the tournament. The boys’ team also won, but with considerably less drama.

Thanks to all the delays, we had to race to the airport, resulting in a bus full of hangry teenagers and coaches. Nevertheless, we survived—with an interesting story to tell.

I relaxed at home for two days and then, on Wednesday, made a solo trip to Busan for some rest and relaxation. Travel here can be surprisingly affordable: my round-trip flight was $75, and my hostel was $25/night. On my first day, I went to a Jjimjilbang, a traditional Korean bathhouse—an immersive cultural experience. The hot tub areas are segregated by gender, and attendees are naked. Tattoos are tolerated now, but full-body tattoos are still prohibited. Outside the locker/hot tub areas are coed spaces for relaxing on mats, playing traditional games, eating, snacking, and trying different saunas. Everyone receives a uniform that feels like pajamas.

I enjoyed the outdoor foot spa—coat on, iced coffee in hand—and also got a full-body salt scrub that made my skin soft but left me feeling a bit like a fish flopping around on a plastic table. I even learned to tie the traditional “ram” towel headwrap. Normally, all of this would be outside my comfort zone, but I’m so glad I jumped in with both feet.

The next day, I headed north of Busan for a Templestay. This cultural program allows participants to experience aspects of Korean Buddhist life. I chose the “relaxation” version, which offered more time in nature and fewer scheduled activities. There were seven other European women—half traveling solo—from the Netherlands, Denmark, Iran/Germany, Spain, and Switzerland. I will definitely return for the more experiential version. I did participate in the 4 a.m. ceremony, which was fascinating. Our final activity was meditating with a monk. Even with his guidance, true meditation still eluded me—but it was an amazing experience nonetheless.

 

On the way back from the temple, I dropped my bag from the train’s overhead storage, knocking my glasses off my face and my sunglasses off my head—breaking both. I then had the chance to experience the efficiency of Korean optometry: I walked into an eyeglass shop, got an exam, ordered two pairs of glasses, and had a backup pair temporarily fixed—all within an hour. I picked up the first pair that night, and the progressive pair will be mailed to me this week. All of it cost less than $200 total, with no insurance.

I also went to a salon for an 18-point scalp/hair repair service. I had three different stylists working on my hair—sometimes simultaneously—and I’m fairly certain I got a massage after every step. Worth it. One stylist was excited to practice his English and gave me recommendations for the best local spots, including his favorite dish (pork and rice soup) and advice to visit the Mount Hwangnyeongsan Observation Deck. 

The nightview was incredible. Five stars. Certified Fresh..

On my last morning, I wandered Gwangalli Beach with coffee and walnut cookies, enjoying the sun and the people-watching. I still prefer Haeundae Beach, partly because the road isn’t right next to the shore, but it was a lovely ending to my trip.

I returned to Jeju on Saturday around 7 p.m. and slept until 10 a.m. the next day. I guess I always need a vacation from my vacation—even the relaxing ones. I still averaged 8 miles of walking per day.

Tomorrow, I head back to school. I’m looking forward to seeing the kids again.

End of log.